Christmas in Provence is a magical time, when time-honoured traditions combine with the region’s natural beauty and timeless charm. If you’re looking for an authentic destination to spend your festive season, discover Provence for Christmas.
Christmas obviously takes place on 24 December, but in Provence, traditions and festivities stretch over almost two months. The ‘calendar festivities’, which begin on 4 December, do not end until 2 February, the day of Candlemas. A holiday in Provence at Christmas is a chance to discover a local culture that goes back hundreds of years, and to experience the joys of its convivial traditions. It’s also the ideal time of year for a family holiday, combining the calm of the great outdoors with the pleasant hustle and bustle of traditional Provençal festivals.
A winter of calendar festivities
In winter in Provence, there are festivities almost every day.
On the 1st Sunday of Advent, calendar time begins. On 4 December, wheat is sown in the traditional ‘seitouns’. From 13 December, Saint Lucia’s Day, Provençal windows are lit with candles and lanterns.
On Christmas Eve, 24 December, the family gets together to prepare the cot. They enjoy a Christmas meal, the Gros Soupa, before attending midnight mass. It’s only when they return home that the presents are opened and the guests share the famous thirteen desserts.
On the menu for 25 December, there’s stuffed turkey! And on the 26th, aïoli (if there’s any left!). On 31 December, New Year’s Eve, we celebrate with family and friends. On 6 January, Epiphany Day, the Three Wise Men are announced in the streets of Provencal villages by tambourines. And surprise! We’re still eating. The kingdom, the real ‘galette de rois’, a crown of brioche with candied fruit. On 2 February, calendar time comes to an end. There’s still plenty to eat, and it’s always sweet, with the Chandeleur pancakes. Finally, the cot is taken down.
Provencal markets, a must for your winter holidays in Provence
It’s hard to spend the festive season in Provence without visiting one of the many typical markets that take place throughout the month of December. The markets in Aix-en-Provence, Salon-de-Provence and Eyguières are among the most popular. The Alpilles at Christmas is ‘the place to be’ in Provence.
You’ll find arts and crafts, sweet and savoury treats, decorations, gift ideas and… the inevitable santons de Provence. Enough to fill every nativity scene in the region!
As well as the material things you can buy here, the illuminations at nightfall, the smell of mulled wine and the gourmet pleasure of eating oysters on the go give these markets a unique flavour, that of Provence in winter.
+ Find out more about the most beautiful Christmas markets in Provence
5 good reasons to come to Provence for Christmas
A warm and authentic Christmas atmosphere
In Provence, Christmas is a festival deeply rooted in local tradition. The villages of Provence are adorned with twinkling lights and festive decorations that add a magical atmosphere. In every village, you’ll find Provençal cots, often hand-made, where the famous santons de Provence represent the Nativity, as well as typical characters from the region, such as the baker or the shepherd. The warm, friendly atmosphere at the local Christmas markets, filled with artisanal products and delicacies, immediately puts you in the festive spirit.
Christmas markets not to be missed
Christmas markets in Provence are unique and typically Mediterranean. Whether in Aix-en-Provence, Avignon or the small villages of the Luberon, each market offers an authentic experience. You’ll find local specialities such as calissons, nougats, marrons glacés and other local produce, perfect for preparing a gourmet New Year’s Eve feast. It’s also the perfect opportunity to pick up handicrafts such as pottery, jewellery and Christmas decorations, which will make perfect souvenirs of your holiday.
The wealth of Provençal Christmas traditions
In Provence, Christmas traditions are very much alive and unique. The midnight mass, sometimes accompanied by the pastorale (a play retracing the Nativity with Provençal songs), is a sacred moment.
The big supper is another not-to-be-missed event: the evening of 24 December brings the whole family together for a vegetarian meal of simple but symbolic dishes, followed by the thirteen desserts, a gourmet ritual featuring dried fruit, nougats and pastries.
These traditions reflect the strong link between Provençal culture and the spirit of Christmas.
Breathtaking scenery, even in winter
Provence is renowned for its magnificent scenery, and this remains true in winter. The mountains of the Luberon and Alpilles, often covered in a thin layer of snow, offer an enchanting spectacle. The lavender fields may be dormant, but the contrast of the ochre earth, olive trees and cypresses under the blue winter sky is a striking sight. The mild Mediterranean climate also makes it possible to enjoy outdoor walks, hikes and visits to hilltop villages, even in December.
A relaxing, tailor-made break in our exceptional accommodation
For those looking for an end-of-year getaway that combines comfort, authenticity and tranquillity, Provence offers a wide choice of villas, mas and houses with character. You can opt for a villa in the heart of the Alpilles or a traditional mas in the Luberon, where you can enjoy a crackling fireplace, breathtaking views and the charm of Provencal decoration. Many accommodations also offer tailor-made services for Christmas: private chefs, festive decorations, organisation of local activities… An enchanted interlude, far from the hustle and bustle, for an unforgettable Christmas in Provence.
Christmas in Provence: why 13 desserts?
Not one, not two, not three… but thirteen. That’s the number of desserts that, according to Provençal tradition, are shared on Christmas Eve. While many families in the Alpilles, Camargue and Luberon regions still follow this tradition, there are very few whose members all know its origins and meaning.
A Provençal tradition with many origins
Although the literature – particularly religious – is full of references to Provençal desserts, it was not until 1925 that their number was precisely stated. We owe this number to Dr Joseph Fallen, who wrote in the special Christmas issue of the newspaper La Pignato: ‘Here’s a quantity of sweets, gourmandises, the thirteen desserts: you need thirteen, yes thirteen, no more if you like, but not one less’.
And it wasn’t until the early 1930s that the tradition became institutionalised. The Musée du Terroir Marseillais adopted the ‘thirteen desserts’ as the Provençal dessert to round off the Christmas Gros Soupa. Since then, on the evening of the 24th in Provence, there have been thirteen desserts, not one more, not one less.
13 is also the number of guests described in the Bible at the Last Supper, Christ’s last meal with his twelve apostles.
In the final analysis, it doesn’t really matter why or how; a number simply had to be defined to formalise what already existed. And 13 is also the number of the département in which this tradition was born!
The list of thirteen desserts
Thirteen is a lot! Thirteen will never leave anyone hungry. Thirteen means there’s something for everyone. There’s something for everyone’s taste buds, with so many different types and origins of sweet dishes on the list. At Christmas in Provence, you’re in for a treat!
We start this list with the four beggars, traditional dried fruits. All have their own religious significance.
- Figs correspond to the Franciscan order.
- Sultanas, for the Dominicans.
- Almonds for the Carmelites.
- Walnuts for the Augustinians.
Then there’s fruit again, but fresh fruit!
- Grapes from the last grape harvest.
- The Christmas melon.
- Oranges, a symbol of wealth, or more commonly, mandarins.
- Dates, in reference to the arrival of Christ from the Orient.
- An exotic fruit of your choice.
Finally, for those with a sweet tooth, there are sweets and pastries:
- La pompe à huile or fougasse d’Arles, a Provençal cake flavoured with orange blossom.
- Local white nougat, preferably with hazelnuts and pistachios.
- Red nougat with rose and pistachios.
- Black nougat with honey and almonds.
All the advantages of winter holiday rentals in Provence
When we think of the south, we immediately think of the mild summer weather, swimming, barbecues, pétanque…
And yet, winter has nothing to envy to summer! Although the activities are inevitably different, depending on the weather conditions, booking a holiday rental in Provence for the Christmas holidays has many advantages.
And one of the most convincing of these is undoubtedly the price. Replacing a summer dip in the pool with an evening by the fire will often save you several hundred euros on your rental. Prices are lower in every way than during the high season, and can even be halved. You’ll be able to spend some quality time with your family in houses with typical Provencal charm, and create memories of a different kind, full of Provencal authenticity.
OUR SELECTION OF CHRISTMAS HOLIDAY RENTALS
LS1-140 BAGUIE ROSO: CHRISTMAS HOLIDAY RENTALS - 8 PEOPLE - ALPILLES
This holiday rental with swimming pool in the Alpilles is located in the heart of the Parc Naturel Régional des Alpilles near the village of MOURIES. You are one kilometre from the shops.
Magnificent landscapes await you like postcards.
Make the most of getting together as a family for Christmas.
Several activities are available to you for the Christmas holidays
LS2-259 ALEMANDO: HOLIDAY RENTALS - 10 PEOPLE - LUBERON
You’ll be charmed by this authentic 19th-century Provencal farmhouse with swimming pool to enjoy with your family at Christmas! This Provencal farmhouse with swimming pool is located at the gateway to the Luberon Natural Park, in a small Provencal village called Les Vignères, between Cavaillon (6kms) and l’Isle sur la Sorgue (8kms).
LS1-412 ANGELICO: CHRISTMAS HOLIDAY RENTALS - 10 PEOPLE - ALPILLES
This very pleasant Provencal farmhouse with heated swimming pool is located in Saint Remy de Provence in the Parc Régional Naturel des Alpilles (Bouches du Rhône department) in Provence. It is located in the countryside, around 5 km from the centre and all amenities.
Share a family meal by the fireplace during the Christmas holidays.
LS7-351 IDOLO: CHRISTMAS HOLIDAY RENTALS - 12 PEOPLE - ALPILLES
This typical Provencal farmhouse with heated swimming pool is located around 2 km from the centre of Salon de Provence in the Bouches-du-Rhône department.
This Provençal farmhouse benefits from a pleasant 1 hectare garden, unfenced with electric gate, planted with roses and a pretty patch of lavender.
This holiday rental has a living room with fireplace and a dining room for family gatherings.
Find the ideal holiday rental with Plaisirs & Maisons de Provence
A visit to Provence for Christmas is guaranteed to be a festive, authentic and soothing experience. Whether you want to discover Provençal traditions, enjoy the Christmas markets, or simply recharge your batteries in an idyllic setting, Provence promises magical memories. So why not make this region your next destination for the festive season?